Hilary RussellThe author’s simple backrests, made of a two-layer lamination of steam-bent wood, are held in place by shock-cord or zip-tie lashings, allowing them to rotate enough to self-adjust to a paddler’s shifting position.
When I began building skin-on-frame double-paddle canoes and kayaks in 1998, backrests consisting of a simple thwart shaped to a curve that fit my back seemed comfortable enough. I sheathed these thwarts in leather, with a bit of sleeping-pad foam tucked inside to make them softer and more comfortable, a device I also used on the gunwales to make carrying more pleasant.
Over time, my interest in comfort while paddling increased. For the canoes I made for sale, I began using a simple backrest thwart with a rim added to the top surface to widen the curved area and strengthen the thwart. Other builders found other ways: the builder Lindsay Lee steam-bent a graceful, wider chair-like backrest and glued it to the forward face of his thwart. Over the years, as commercial backrests became increasingly well-padded and adjustable, I began thinking about ways that I could make my backrests self-adjust to the paddlers. Ideally, I wanted to retain the simplicity of my basic backrest thwart.
The solution I came up with was to make a curved backrest that relies on simple attachment to the thwart by either shock cords or zip-ties, giving it enough play to tilt back and forth as the paddler changes position.
How to Make a Padded Backrest for a Canoe
Photo 1: My thwarts are built of hardwood or spruce 2′ 6″ long, with a 12 3⁄4″-long curve shaped in the forward edge, as shown in this drawing by my friend and fellow-boatbuilder Roger McKee. This is the thwart configuration I have used, and it’s long enough to be trimmed at both ends when fitting the thwart to a particular boat.
Photo 2: I leave the edge of the curve’s underside as it is, since the seatback won’t be rotating down that far, but I round-over the upper edge with either a 1 1⁄2″ × 1⁄2″ radius router bit or a spokeshave.
Photo 3: Next, I make a bending jig over which the backrest pieces can be shaped. The jig is made by sawing some 3⁄4″- to 1 1⁄2″-thick pieces of scrap wood to the length and curvature of the backrest, as shown in No. 1. These are stacked and glued up, as shown, and then the jig’s convex 3 face is sanded fair.
Photo 4: Next, make a template, as shown, to be used to shape the steam-bent backrest. If using hardwood or soft-wood, make two pieces 1⁄8″ thick or a bit more, 13″ long, and 6 1⁄2″ wide. As an alternative, using two pieces of 3mm or 4mm marine plywood works well without steam-bending. The template can be used to mark the shape on each layer so they can be rough-cut before being glued-up.
Photo 5: When using steam-bent wood, whether hardwood or softwood, steam the laminates for eight to ten minutes, remove them from the steambox, and clamp them together over the bending jig. In this case, the pieces have been shaped to their final profiles and drilled for the lashings. When clamping, whether for steam-bent pieces or in final glue-up, use pads, as shown; I like to use scraps of rounded-over canoe-rib stock. These clamping pads at the ends help prevent cracks from developing.
I like to leave the steam-bent pieces clamped up to cool for a day or two before removing them from the jig so that they hold their shapes. Before glue-up, cover the convex face of the jig with plastic wrap, waxed paper, or plastic packing tape, as shown in the photograph. Coat the faying surfaces of the wooden layers with ample waterproof carpenter’s glue or epoxy, and clamp them back in place, again using clamping pads, as shown.
Photo 6: This photograph shows a glue-up of two layers that were cut wide of the template shape before being steam-bent. In this case, the template is applied after glue-up to mark the final profile and the locations of the lashing holes. Use the template to mark the positions of the holes with an awl, and drill them. Fair the final profile, and don’t worry if the shape changes a bit from the original.
Photo 7: A foam pad is not absolutely necessary, but it adds a great comfort to the back-rest. I use a firm but not rigid closed-cell material. Appropriate 7 foam—1⁄2″ is thick enough—can be ordered from canoe, kayak, or outdoor sports suppliers. Cut the material proud of the backrest to protect its wooden edges and provide a bit more comfort. Some foam is self-adhesive; if it is not, use good spray adhesive or contact cement to fix it in place.
Next, hold the backrest against the thwart and centered athwartships, then make marks on the thwart in line with the backrest holes. Along those thwart lines, drill holes set back about 1⁄2″ or a bit more from the for-ward edge to receive the lashings. Shock cord, as shown, works well for the lashings and allows the back-rest to tip back and forth. Zip ties, which are available in a variety of colors, are a good alternative.
Photo 8. These canoe seats reflect the wisdom of age. A sore back has sent me literally back to the drawing board. I’ve found that padded backrests have added to my enjoyment of spending time in both double-paddle canoes and kayaks.
Hilary Russell owns Russell Boats and directs the Berkshire Boat Building School in Sheffield, Massachusetts. He is the author of Building Skin-on-Frame Double-Paddle Canoes and has taught at WoodenBoat School, Yestermorrow Design/Build School, Riverport Wooden Boat School, and at his shop in Sheffield. His new book about building skin-on-frame kayaks, canoes, and rowing craft is soon to be published.