graceful shape, dead-simple construction, and easily available materials make the Lumberyard Skiff an ideal project for first-time boatbuilders. The swept-up stern makes possible a dry-shod landing on a sloping shore, keeps passenger weight nearer the middle of the boat, and as we’ll see in subsequent installments, provides a place for the rudder (yes, there’ll be a sailing version) or the power head of an electric trolling motor. Because there’s no plywood, there’s mini-mum waste and maximum enjoyment with edge tools. Shaping and planing good quality white pine or soft cedar is joyous by comparison with plywood. Getting the four pine planks for the sides will take some fussing. Chances are you’ll have to pick over your lumberyard’s pile of 16' 1 x 10s to find suitable pieces. They have to be nearly free of knots so they’ll bend without breaking, and straight along their edges so they can be glued together just as you get them. The planks have to be flat across their faces (no cupping tolerated) and should be kiln-dried so they won’t cup later on. You’ll pay $2 or $3 or more per board foot, but there’s almost no waste. Keep those boards out of the weather until you’re ready to use them. Laid on the grass even for a few hours in hot sunshine, they’ll cup, so let the air get to both faces equally. You’ll no doubt have questions as you build your Lumberyard Skiff. You can ask these by mailing a letter to Lumberyard Skiff, WoodenBoat Publications, P.O. Box 78, Brooklin, ME 04616, or by visiting the We’ll host an online forum at the Getting Started web site— and we’ll post photographs of completed boats and show additional details—such as a sailing rig and a trolling motor. We’ll begin construction by gluing up the 20"-wide sideboards from two 10" pieces of pine— plus a small block of pine to add extra width where needed at the bow. The Sideboards 1. Gluing the Sideboards 2. Marking a Side After the glue has cured and the overspread is cleaned up, the expanded side can be drawn, full size, on what will become the inside face of one of the sideboards. Use a 3⁄8”x 3⁄4” batten for drawing curves, extending each a little beyond the last marked point for fairness. 3. Cutting One of the Sides Saw just outside the marked lines, then plane fair. Use the first side as a pattern for the second, which is to be a mirror image. Transfer all reference marks as well. (Saw the two long scraps to 1 1⁄4” width, and they’ll make up the lion’s share of the guardrails. The Stem 4. Marking Inner Guidelines for the Stem Inner stem marked to measurements shown on plans. Leave about 6” extra length at the stemhead for clamping and for support while hull is upside down. Wood can be pressure-treated Southern pine, Douglas-fir, oak, or any other firm and durable wood that holds fastenings well. 5. Sawing Out the Inner Stem Saw to lines marked on forward face with the saw table tilted to 26 degrees. Leave wood above the sheer uncut for clamping. 6. Beveling the Inner Stem Use spokeshave followed by block plane to bring surface to marked lines. 7. Winding Bevel Detail Beveled surfaces change automatically from 26 degrees at the sheer to 16.5 degrees at the heel as you shave away the excess wood. 8. Inner Stem Inner stem ready to receive side planks. Plan Detail: Stem Stem & Sideboard Assembly 9. Temporary Clam

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