The Single-Point Bandsaw Fence

An easy-to-make single-point bandsaw fence simplifies resawing to make two planks of identical dimensions.

1. Start by drilling a hole through the bandsaw’s stock parallel fence. If your bandsaw does not allow this, you can build a stand-alone fence instead (see below).

2. Make a squared hardwood block 1¼″ × 1¼″ to a length that matches the width of the piece to be resawn. Place the block vertically against the fence on the bandsaw table, as shown, and mark the hole location through the fence.

3. Drill a hole to receive a threaded insert. This hole should be approximately ¹⁄₃₂″ smaller than the outside diameter of the threads. The threaded insert is of a size to receive a ¼″ bolt. (As an alternative, a hanger bolt with a wing nut could work for this purpose.)

4. Thread two nuts and the insert onto a wing bolt, and use the nuts to set the threaded insert into the hole until it is flush, as shown. Take care to keep the wing bolt square to the wood, especially for the first few turns.

5. Remove the wing bolt and nuts, and use a block plane to chamfer and round-off the face opposite the threaded insert, as shown. To ensure accuracy, don’t remove any material right at the contact point in the middle of the fence.

6. A set of shaped blocks of varying lengths allows you to use one that best matches a board’s width. Using a block of the appropriate length allows the saw’s upper blade guides to be lowered to assure the most accurate cut.

7. The next step is to decide the horizontal position of the fence on the bandsaw. First, use a pencil compass or combination square to scribe a centerline all along one edge of a carefully squared-off board to be cut. Scribe twice—once from each face—to ensure that the line is exactly centered.

8. Adjust the fence so that it is vertical and its centerline is aligned with the blade’s teeth. Adjust the fence’s horizontal position so that the cut will match one-half your board’s thickness. Also, check that the blade and the single-point block are parallel.

9. Position a featherboard (See below “How to build a simple featherboard”) so that it will hold the lower part of the board firmly against the fence. The contact point should align with the blade’s teeth and the single-point block. When the position is correct, clamp it in place.

10. If you cut following the line on the top edge of the board and keep the lower part of the board tight against the fence, blade drift inside the board should be minimal.

11. Cut right through the pencil line. The single point of contact acts as a pivot, allowing you to “steer” the workpiece during the cut to correct for drift.

12. Even the most careful resaw cut on a bandsaw will “eat” a bit of wood. On an operation such as this, I usually expect to lose at least ¼″ of the total thickness to the bandsaw and subsequent passes through the thickness planer For example, if I need two planks finished to ¼″, the dressed thickness of the original board needs to be at least ¾″.

If your bandsaw’s fence doesn’t allow for mounting single-point blocks, you can build a stand-alone fence that clamps onto the saw table. It can be built quickly out of a few scraps of screwed-together plywood, as shown at left above, or you can take a bit more time and build a pretty-looking fence in solid wood, as in the example shown at right above, which consists of two pieces with a half-lap joint that’s secured from below with a screw.

A featherboard is a key component of the single-point fence setup: it keeps the lower part of the workpiece pressed against the fence, allowing you to focus on following the cut line on the upper edge. To create one, make a series of 4″-long cuts along the grain on a clear, straight-grained block of wood, as shown above left. Here, I’m using a 1 1⁄4″-thick piece of ash. Round off the corner where the featherboard will meet the workpiece, as shown above right, and cut it to a size and profile that will allow you to easily clamp it to your bandsaw table.